A bit of housekeeping before we get into it; the schedule for the newsletter will be a lot more spread out this summer as I’m going to Portugal for ten days (and Amsterdam for two) at the end of June. And then because I haven’t been sweaty enough already this year, I’ll be riding my bike across the state of Iowa at the end of July. And then I have a family vacation in August.
I’ve already got some really cool interviews/posts in the can, one of which became so big I think I’m going to have to split it into two parts. And as always, I’ll do my best to get the word out whenever I see important pizza related things happening.
Fans of deep dish, this one’s for you.
Let’s start locally, where pizza historian Peter Regas wrote a piece for Chicago Mag about the secret history of Pizzeria Uno’s original deep dish crust.
The article includes Uno’s original dough recipe (created by Ric Riccardo), which Regas tracked down almost 80 years after it was published for the first (and only) time.
In 2013, I discovered what I believe to be the original deep-dish dough recipe created by Pizzeria Uno’s founder, Richard Riccardo. The recipe, detailed in this article for the first time since 1945, produces a thinner, lighter, vaguely cake-like golden-brown crust that’s distinctly different than the thicker, heavier biscuit-like crust now served at deep-dish pizzerias such as Pizzeria Uno, Gino’s East, and Lou Malnati’s.
The most interesting ingredient I’m seeing? Scalded milk.
Scalding milk helps break down the whey, which allows the yeast to work faster, and gives the dough a much quicker rise.
Regas postulates that the dough they use at Uno’s now is the third iteration of that recipe, with the second version being created by the legendary Alice Mae Redmond in the late 1940s, and the current recipe (which has almost four times the fat) happening sometime in the late 1960s or early 1970s.
So which version is best? According to Regas, it’s Riccardo’s original. He thinks the current version uses far too much fat in the dough, especially considering that it’s typically topped by a mountain of cheese and sausage.
The New York Times also got in on the action, with food writer and author Eric Kim penning a lengthy article that not only aims to catalog some of the many ways in which deep dish is misunderstood, but also chases its history all over Chicago (he talks to Regas and spends some time digging into that very same recipe as well).
Eric spent months speaking with all kinds of Chicagoans about the pizza, and it feels like he’s grown a genuine affinity for the style:
To consider deep dish pizza is to consider Chicago. Waiting in long lines at beloved spots with a group of friends is part of the deep dish experience, even if the meal is often reserved for special occasions, family parties and corporate outings. It’s the city’s most famous but arguably most misunderstood culinary mascot; to understand it, you have to meet the team of players that make up its world of styles. And if you really want to know the original version, you have to bake one at home.
One of the Chicagoans he talked to is none other than friend of the newsletter Jonathan Porter from Chicago Pizza Tours, with Jonathan sharing the story of how the search for his favorite childhood deep dish led to a unique new pizza relationship (which also happens to be a frequent stop on his tours now).
And then changing gears ever so slightly, if you’ve ever wondered how other countries view deep dish, here’s a look at a Japanese interpretation that’s incredibly disturbing:
The reactions, just like the beef covered “crust”, are certainly something:
Because all our eyes need a dietary (and spiritual) cleansing after that, local independent vegan food brand Upton’s Naturals is teaming up with Paulie Gee’s in Logan Square for a two-hour all-you-can-eat plant-based pizza buffet on Tuesday, June 25th from 5 to 7:30 pm.
The pizzas will feature a wide array of Upton’s popular meat alternatives like seitan and jackfruit, and there will also be fresh salads and a dessert bar from vegan bakers Pie, Pie My Darling.
You’ll need advance tickets for the event (you can purchase them right here) and I wouldn’t wait too long, as 50% of the tickets are already sold.
FOX 32 Chicago invited Matt Wilde, the executive chef/owner of Bob’s Pizza, to come by their studio and fill them in on Bob’s signature Pilsen-style pizza.
Two things; no, Pilsen-style is most certainly not an actual thing. Wilde even admits as much, say that they jokingly coined the term when they first opened in order to stand out, and it’s stuck with them ever since.
And secondly, I’ve been to the Bob’s in Pilsen multiple times and not only is the pizza fantastic, but it also has to be made with some kind of black magic because the crust (which is delicious to begin with) somehow tastes even better the next day.
Wilde makes no secret of the fact that Bob’s uses Old Style in their dough instead of water, which adds additional malt/richness to the flavor, but there’s still something more to it than that. And now I want some Bob’s.
If you’re in Glen Ellyn (and I know at least two of you who are) you’ve got some brand-new pizza to eat as of this Wednesday (May 22).
The Nemec family, who own both Zaza’s Pizza in Lakeview and Nemec Brothers Pizza in Geneva, just opened their brand-new shop at 542 Crescent Blvd in Glen Ellyn.
Zaza’s/Nemec Brothers serve traditional 16” New York-style pizzas with top of the line ingredients like Stanislaus tomatoes, and Ezzo pepperoni.
My buddy Dan Casazza sent me this reel the other day, and it blew my mind:
Chef Leo Spizziri holds the distinction of being 1 of only 100 worldwide Master Pizza Instructors from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli in Venice, Italy. A Chicago-native, he’s had a hand in local pizza operations like Giordano’s, Francesca’s Restaurant Group, and Labriola Baking Company. He also has quite possibly the coolest garage I’ve ever seen in my life.
Chef Leo has a YouTube Channel called The Pizza Garage with Leo Spizzirri where he posts all kinds of informative videos full of tips, tricks, and recipes.
And since we’re talking YouTube, Dan just got a phenomenal video review that was posted earlier this week:
The hits for Dan just keep on coming (Hot Dan Summer?), and I’m telling you, don’t sleep on Casazza House — if you know someone that’s doing better Detroit-style pizza in Chicago, tell me so I can eat it (and believe it). Hit Dan up on his Instagram to place an order, and he’s got a MAJOR popup coming in a few weeks.
Also, next Thursday (May 30) is the last day to take advantage of the Billy Z and Pequod’s collab. Be sure to place your carryout order early (they go online at 11 am) as the Tripping Billy special has been selling out every week. I went a few weeks back, and I guarantee you it’s worth it.
Not Chicago, but still pizza:
A healthcare workers union is upset after its leaders spent $30,000 at a pizza parlor. The average pizza costs $22.52 in Illinois, which equates to roughly 1,332 pizzas on that tab. AMATEUR HOUR.
I’m going to take this a step further and say that not only should these recycling boxes be in every major city in America, but also that each city should save up all the boxes to have a giant bonfire/pizza party at the end of every year.
(FYI, after some slight research there seems to be no definitive answer on whether it’s okay to burn cardboard pizza boxes since the answer is entirely dependent on the presence of certain chemicals in the cardboard, which varies wildly from box to box).
Chuck E. Cheese has officially begun the process of phasing out their animatronic band — which I had no idea was called Munch’s Make Believe Band. You know what I do know, however? That the giant rodent’s full name is actually Charles Entertainment Cheese. And now you know it forever, too.
Some professional chefs share their choices for the best slice of pizza in America, and any list that has Ian’s Pizza on it is completely legit in my book. Is macaroni and cheese on a pizza ridiculous? Yes. Is it an incredibly delicious 8,000 calorie slice, though? Also, yes. I know that the two former Ian’s locations in Chicago both became Dimo’s (which sounds like it was primarily because of issues with franchising fees), who use essentially the same combos and recipes, but for whatever reason the pizza doesn’t taste quite the same (I have no issues destroying some Dimo’s slices, however). The list is filled with some great looking restaurants, so be sure to keep it in mind next time you’re in a different city and looking for a great slice.
Here are a bunch of foods that non-Americans think are completely disgusting. On the list? Deep dish pizza, or as one UK Reddit user put it: "When they introduced me to Chicago pizza, something in me died. That should not be called pizza — it's just a devil fat pie." I would absolutely eat at a Devil Fat Pie, by the way, regardless of whatever type of pie they’re serving.
Will Jon Stewart’s (and Stephen Colbert’s) visit for the DNC in August reignite his pizza war with Chicago?
Not pizza, but still Chicago:
An excellent list from travel site Travel Noire of 10 of the best black-owned restaurants in Chicago.
Here’s a solid rundown of what you could eat if you only had 24 hours to spend in Chicago that mentions all kinds of personal favorites like Hero Coffee Bar, Smack Dab, the Chicago French Market, Cindy’s Rooftop, Diner Grill, and Warlord (among many, many others).
Looking for a comprehensive list of every Chicago Street Festival this summer? Here you go. And just a reminder, as stated by the city’s Office of Special Events, “If the festival takes place on a public street you cannot be charged an admission at the gate — you can only be asked to make a donation.” The Reader put out a great article on the subject 21 years ago, but it sounds like it’s still an issue.
And finally, in honor of school almost being out for the summer, I figured I’d pay tribute to one of my favorite end of the year traditions by showing a video.
Ever since Caleb Williams/Rome Odunze night I’ve been trying to decide when to jump on the Chicago Bears’ bandwagon, but after they dropped their new schedule release video (heavily inspired by John Hughes movies) last week, I’m officially all in:
Delicious 😋 have a great trip!
I read an article in Saveur magazine many moons ago about all the incredible food you can eat during Ragbrai (pie, ice cream, fried chicken, etc.). Should be a super fun experience. Also, I’ve been meaning to try Bob’s pickle pizza. What’s your take?